Pacific Swift - Summer Trip 3 2018

July 30

The first 4 days of the trip have flown by under bright sunny skies. We departed Port Hardy and started our 250 nautical mile passage to Haida Gwaii with much excitement. The first evening the fog rolled in as we enter the open water and swell of Queen Charlotte Sound. A few trainees were not feeling so well with the roll the first night but by 0100 in the morning we tucked in the protected water of Fitz Hugh Sound and continued our journey in the flat calm waters of the central coast. Unfortunately the fog hung around for most of the morning and we were unable to see much of the passing scenery. Mid afternoon the fog lifted and there was a general contented buzz onboard the boat with lessons being taught, people climbing , standing watch and just enjoying the time chatting in small groups. The evening of day 2 we exited the much loved protection of the central coast, set our sails and started our passage across Hecate Strait to Haida Gwaii. We were lucky the have the full moon to illuminate the beautiful dancing waves for dance they did, a little too vigorous at times for those trying to sleep in their bouncing bunks.

After a night of sailing bioluminescence washing over deck and in the waves beside the boat, and very little sleep, we dropped our anchor at Woodruff Bay the morning of day 3! This stunning, isolated bay lies on the southern end of Gwaii Haanas Park. After 2 full days of being on the boat people we ready to hit the beach and we were in for a treat. The beach felt like it could have been in the South Pacific and so did the water. Almost everyone went for a swim, stretched their legs, tried some log surfing and did a small beach cleanup! Heading back to the Swift we raised our dories and headed for Cape St.James at the southern tip of Kunghit Island, the very southern light of Haida Gwaii! We hiked to the top of Cape St. James where we had the unique perspective of being able to look to the east and see the relative calm Hecate Strait and to our West and see the Wild West coast and Pacific Ocean, quite the juxtaposition when you see them side by side from such a view. Quite often this point of land is called “The end of the world” and it sure feels like it. To our south you could see a chain of islands filled with roaring sea lions and colonies of sea birds and after that just an empty expanse of horizon. After the hike we headed to Heater Harbour for a calm anchorage for the night and we all welcomed a peaceful and full nights sleep.

Morning of day 4 we woke and head to SGang Gwaay the UNESCO world heritage site. Here we were welcomed by three Haida Watchmen and they toured us through the remains of the village. The knowledge these watchmen have of the deep history of this place is inspiring and they weave a picture of what life looked like when these villages were full of families. They shared with us the history behind many of the remaining standing poles and the remnants of houses that can still be seen. Once we had all filtered through and said our goodbyes we tucked away in an anchorage just on the west coast to the north of Anthony Island. It was wonderful to see everyone onboard have a chance to sit and relax and enjoy each other’s company after a busy few days. Many enjoyed a good swim and rope swing after dinner and all are now singing mug up down in the hold. Until tomorrow, good night.

August 1

Starboard Watch has collaborated to provide the next blog.
The past two days have been full of sunny skies, deepening discussions, loads of laughter and more amazing excursions. After leaving SGang Gwaay we tucked into a quiet bay near Lascoone Point where the much anticipated rope swing came out and the pool was opened. Everyone who took the plunge reported that the water was freezing!!! Before lining up for another turn or two; a few sporting the ships tutu. All were refreshed and then warmed by the last golden rays of an amazing day.

Soon after setting out for a scenic morning route around Gordon Island, shouts of dolphins! brought everyone on deck as Pacific white sided dolphins played in our stern waves. A short time later a humpback whale lumbered by our starboard (best) side. On our way back through Houston Stewart Channel the zodiac was launched to search for a whale skull that was sighted by the Pacific Grace last year on the north end of Kunghit Island, but we were not as lucky this time. After several hours of roley seas, everyone was glad to be tucking around Burnaby Island where the boat-fit bunch resumed their pushups on the after deck. Tuck-n-tidy, a mug-up birthday celebration and thoughtful sharing brought day 5 to an end at a peaceful anchorage, well positioned for a morning expedition through Burnaby Narrows where we had learned we would find an amazing concentration of marine life.  Morning clean-up and breakfast on day six were managed quickly, the dories were soon launched and all three watches rowed toward the passage also know as Dolomite Narrows. With Kyle adeptly steering, Starboard Watch was last to depart and was catching up to the others but soon stopped rowing and floated in silent awe as a group of Rossi dolphins changed their course and passed only 3 metres away, the marble like markings on their bodies clearly visible and their bursts of breath much louder than any other sound in the channel. Our watch described Burnaby Narrows as rad, dope, lit, cookin, narly and bodacious! We saw bat stars, moon snails, sea cucumbers, sea stars in various colours, crabs, urchins, moon snail egg collars, fried egg jellies, nudibranch, clams shooting geysers along the shore and eagles soaring overhead.

Back aboard the Swift we weighed anchor and headed past All Alone Stone into Juan Perez Sound where fishing lines were set, two sharks were spotted and an overboard cap was recovered on our way to the next evening anchorage near Tanu. In the morning we will be guided by Watchmen through the ancient village site of Taanuu Llnagaay.
Goodnight all!
Starboard Watch

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